Monday, March 13, 2017

Switzerland and Italy!

Wow, what an journey! The trip was a whirlwind of adventure, and defined primarily by fantastic views, hiking, food, and friends. We trained down through Germany overnight to arrive in Switzerland, where we spent two days, then traveled onward to Italy, where we spent 7 days, and finally flew back to Scandinavia.



SWITZERLAND

After leaving Friday afternoon from Copenhagen, getting in Hamburg Friday evening, taking a night train to Zurich, and a final train to Interlaken Saturday morning, we arrived at our destination in the middle of the Swiss Alps around 10 AM. Having an on-and-off sleep on the train, with conductors waking you up at all hours to check passes, the constant stopping and going on the rails, and the blaring lights, makes days blur together. Regardless, despite being a little flustered, we arrived into Interlaken at the start of a new day and got right into it. Dropped between two picturesque lakes and shadowed by the nearby Alps, Interlaken is the poster child of stunning Swiss landscapes.

Great views from the middle of Interlaken

After checking in to the hostel and organizing our things, we took a stroll around the town to capture the views and then returned to our accommodation where we were to be picked up in a van for our big thrill of the trip: bungee jumping! The van took took us on a 30-minute journey high into the Alps to a gondola station. From there, we took a gondola a few hundred feet higher to where we would jump. One by one, with 5 other thrill-seekers like ourselves, we jumped from the gondola and plummeted 450 feet down to the snowy, frozen lake beneath us. The feeling is unlike anything else. Certainly scarier than skydiving, it is over too fast to even get an adrenaline rush as you would when riding a roller coaster. Rather, the entire body seems to shut down in shock. It happens quickly; the door to the gondola opens and before you know it the instructor is counting down 5...4....3....2....1, and you jump. From there, it's about 5 seconds of absolute solitary free fall before the bungee activates and your senses are shocked back into reality. I remember taking a deep breath as soon as the bungee caught me and looking around, processing my surroundings. It was surreal and terrifying and exhilarating, and everything a thrill-seeker would dream of. I actually went first (not based on my own accord, but rather the choice of the guide), which meant that after I was lowered to the ground following my jump, I could look back up and watch the other patrons jump after me. Watching Mackenzie jump was certainly scarier than jumping myself, but I know that she agrees that it was an unforgettable experience. I might be biased, but after watching all the others jump, Mackenzie's form was certainly the best (she definitely didn't tell me to write this part).


The two of us on our jumps. Totally crazy.

After the drive back, we returned to our hostel for a quiet and early evening, where we chattered excitedly about the jump and the feeling of it over dinner. We awoke Sunday morning around 6 AM to take an early train to Lauterbrunnen, a cozy village 30 minutes outside Interlaken nestled in a valley with towering Alps on every side. The train ride was scenic, and we watched the sun rise over the snow-covered mountains, illuminating those that stood tallest first before sharing the light with the others. We arrived in Lauterbrunnen ready for our first full day of hiking of the trip. From the train stop we walked 2 hours (7 km) through the valley to the base of a gondola, which, alongside countless skiiers, we took up the side of the mountain. Unlike the skiiers, however, who were going to the peak, we were the only two to get off at the first stop: the humble town of Gimmelwald.

Typical scene in the quaint town of Gimmelwald

Literally on the side of a mountain, Gimmelwald provided the best views of the Alps imaginable, as well as a great starting point to a hike up the mountain to Mürren, a slightly larger town situated about 500 meters higher and 4km away from Gimmelwald. We took our time both after initially arriving at Gimmelwald and on the hike to Mürren, surveying the non-stop beauty of the Alps all around us. After about 1.5 hours we arrived in Mürren, where we relaxed and stared at the Alps in awe before descending back down the mountain. Along the hike we walked along slanting green pastures, winding rivers, and crooked bridges, as well as countless horses and sheep, and even a friendly cat who trotted alongside us for a while. The views were absolutely breathtaking for every second of the entire day. We took the gondola back to the valley, a bus back to Lauterbrunnen, and the local train back to Interlaken. After grabbing our stuff from the hostel, we were back on the train towards Milan, from where we would take a night train down to Rome.

Feeling like we're on top of the world in Mürren!

On the way into Milan we had a 2-hour layover in Domodossola, a small northern Italian city flanked by the looming Alps. We walked around the city and were fortunate enough to wander into the center, where the city locals were still celebrating Carnevale! It was fun to watch the dancing, drinking, loud music, and excessive use of confetti. It was no Venice celebration, but a neat surprise to wander into. After the break, we continued down through the night to Rome.



ITALY

Rome

We arrived in Rome bright and early at 6 AM and decided to take advantage of the empty streets by walking to some of the ancient city's greatest sites. Before the rest of the tourists came out, we were able to see the Colosseum at sunrise, Palantine Hill, the Roman Forum, and the Pantheon. We walked for four hours, clad with our heavy bags, while waiting for our Airbnb to open.

Ancient Roman Forum with the rising sun

At 10 AM, we got into our Airbnb, relaxed a little, and contacted a couple of Mackenzie's friends from W&L, Mandy and John, who were also in Rome (one as a local exchange exchange student and the other as an exchange student also from Copenhagen). With them, we took a bus into the center of town and walked back to the Pantheon (now much busier), as well as to the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, and Roman National Monument. We also grabbed the best gelato of the trip during this time -- yum!

The Pantheon at 8 AM. Worth the early arrival time -- no crowds!!

Mandy headed back to class, and the remaining three of us headed back to the Colosseum for a tour, but it had closed recently, so we just ended up staying and watching the sun fall in the sky behind the ancient arena and the victory arch next to it. Mackenzie, John, and I then walked back to our Airbnb (he was staying with us), where we rested our feet for a couple hours before heading over to Trastevere, a neighborhood on the other side of Rome known for cozy back alleys and delicious food, for dinner. I got a delicious prosciutto pizza (the first of many) and Mackenzie got some pasta. We finished the day walking around Trastevere.

Colosseum at sunset! 


For our second day in Rome we decided to head to another country: Vatican City (my 10th official country!). John had to leave early that morning and Mandy had class, so it was just the two of us. We waited in line for about an hour before getting into the museum, which was absolutely amazing. It was surreal to see Raphael's School of Athens and the incredible Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo, both of which I have learned about extensively in school. Beyond these, there were countless amazing works of art, ornately decorated halls, and even ancient Egyptian artifacts that left both Mackenzie and I in awe.

Beautiful ceiling on exhibit hall leading to Sistine Chapel

After finishing the museum, we waited in line once more to get into St. Peter's Basilica, but it was well worth it. The basilica was shockingly huge (the largest in the world and almost 5 times the volume of #2!) and absolutely breathtakingly designed. There are no words to describe the beauty inside this monolithic church. We spent a long time in here just spinning in circles and trying to take in all that was around us. Among the many works of art, beautiful tombs, and architectural wonders, the famous Pieta and the tomb of St. Peter (yes, the Peter, as in the apostle Peter) stood out as the most memorable. After spending an hour in the church we decided to take the gut-wrenching 550 step climb to the top of the dome, which resulted in fantastic views all over the Vatican and Rome. We finished the day by walking to the nearby Castel Sant'Angelo and over the adjoining bridge before taking a bus home.

View over Rome from atop St. Peter's Basilica

We went to a spot near our Airbnb for dinner: Il Cuore di Napoli, a tasty restaurant specializing in Napoli dishes. We had a fun time interacting with our very friendly waitress who spoke close to zero English, as well as observing the local football fans who had gathered to watch a Napoli team play on the TV. The food was delicious (I got pizza #2), and we both went home for the night feeling full and happy.

Wednesday morning we woke up and headed over to the train station, where we hopped back onto the rails for our trip to Florence. A mere 2.5 hour journey, the ride was amazing as we drifted though the Tuscan hills. I never believed that Italian villas were actually real and widespread, but it's true; everywhere around us the landscape was dotted with tiny villages on raised hills. Of the many train rides we've now been on, it was certainly one of the favorites (along with riding through the towering Swiss Alps and along the snowy Elbe River towards Prague).

Florence

We arrived in Florence shortly after noon, and took a small walk to where we would be staying: my friend Xander's apartment! One of my best friends from high school, Xander was studying in Florence for the semester and had room for us to stay. He met up with us, and after helping us drop off our bags, walked around the city to the main sites with us, acting as a personal tour guide. After coming from Rome, it was amazing how compact everything in the city was. Our first destination was a big one: the world-famous Duomo, a fantastically huge church especially known for it's massive dome (the largest in the world). With no line, we walked right in and marveled at the interior. Admittedly, coming from St. Peter's the day before, it was difficult for the interior to amaze us, but the vastness of the church, and especially the dome, was incredible.

The Duomo in the background with its adjoining Baptistry in front

From the Duomo we continued our quasi-guided tour to Loggia dei Lanzi, a small sculpture collection right on the side of one of the main squares. While humble in appearance, the sculptures it boasts are world-renowned, among which is The Rape of the Sabine Women.

After checking out the sculptures, we took a quick look inside the Palazzo Vecchio, then continued onward to the Basilica of Sante Croce, in my opinion the coolest church in Florence. The outside boasted a similar facade to the Duomo, with interesting white and green colors, but the inside was where the real treasure was. While the decorations were beautiful, my favorite part of the interior were the funeral monuments (basically really fancy tombs that lined the walls of the church). Specifically, within this one church were tombs for Michelangelo, Galileo, and Machiavelli, as well as an honorary tomb for Dante. It was fascinating to think that the remains of the very men who changed the world as we know it were resting mere feet in front of us. A sobering moment that made the existence of history textbook figures much more real.

The tomb of Galileo -- mine and Mack's favorite

We continued onward to the Tiber river, where we caught our first glimpse of the historic Ponte Vecchio. This "old bridge" was gorgeous as we approached, and really fun to walk accross and window shop the incredibly expensive jewelry and watch stores. As we came to the other side, Xander had to leave, so Mackenzie and I walked onward to Palazzo Pitti, where we ate our lunch on the large hill, then grabbed some gelato and walked back towards the apartment, once again taking our time along the way to take in the landmarks.

Ponte Vecchio as the sun begins to dip

We finished the day by going to Trattoria Za Za, a nice restaurant that was highly suggested by Xander and his roommates.  I got the creamy truffle ravioli, which was delicious and definitely my best meal of the trip. The house wine was also spectacular.

Day two of Florence was all about the museums! Being the heart of the Renaissance, you can bet that some of history's greatest artistic masterpieces are housed in the many museums of the city. We started at the Accademia, which had one major attraction: Michelangelo's David. Obviously having heard of this sculpture for most of my life and always thinking of it as the greatest sculpture of all time, I was curious to see if it stood up to my expectations, and it absolutely did. It was breathtaking, and Mackenzie and I probably spent 30 minutes just staring at it. Beyond the David though, there wasn't much to see in the Accademia, so we quickly headed over to the more densely art-packed Uffizi down the street.

The Uffizi was filled with works from the greatest names to come out of the Renaissance, including Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Botticelli, and we spent at least three hours slowly making our way through the rooms. The highlights were Botticelli's Birth of Venus and La Pimavera, Michelangelo's The Holy Family, and da Vinci's Annunciation, but every piece in the museum was amazing.

Mackenzie and The Holy Family, keep an eye out 
for a replica in their piano room!

By the time we were finished with the museums the sun was already beginning to fall in the sky, and we took a quick tour through the nearby outdoor leather market and accompanying indoor food market (where I got pizza #3). We finished the day by taking a long hike across town and up to Piazza Michelangelo, which provides a great vantage point over the city. It's a classic view, with the Duomo dominating the Florentine skyline, and we stayed here for a couple hours, relaxing and chatting. We left and met with Xander and some of his friends for a dinner at a local place called La Ghiotta.

Florentine skyline; the leftmost tower is the Palazzo Vecchio,
and on the right is the Duomo with its clock tower

And just like that, Florence, the heart of the Renaissance, was finished. We retired back to the apartment for a brief sleep before waking up early to head to our next destination: Cinque Terre. I know we will return to Florence (and all of Italy, for that matter), in the future. Without a doubt, it was one of our favorite cities, filled with a vibrant history, world-renowned art, fantastic food, friendly people, and beautiful weather. It really has it all.

Cinque Terre

Mackenzie and I arrived in Cinque Terre around 10:30 on Friday morning, ready for a fun-filled day of hiking! Meaning "Five Lands", Cinque Terre is a collection of five coastal towns along the western coast of Italy about an hour north of Pisa. We dropped off our bags at our Airbnb (which had an amazing view) in Corniglia, and headed out as early as we could. While most tourists to the area choose to take the trains from city to city, we decided to do the hard route, and hike. It ended up being about 8 miles in all (about 4 of which were really tough), and took us until 6:30 PM to finish, but we did it!

I'll keep this brief, because there's only so many times I can use the word "beautiful" in one section, but the hike was just that -- beautiful. While very difficult at times, we were justly rewarded with fantastic views throughout. Along the way, I recorded a bunch of videos documenting our journey as we went, and Mackenzie is in the process of compiling them into the little video to help you can get a taste of what we were experiencing! We'll post that when it's done.

Just two hikers on the trek to Riomaggiore!

In summary, the hike was amazing. Our favorite town was Manarola for its unstoppable beauty, followed by our home of Corniglia for it's quaint and laid-back nature. Vernazza was also spectacular, but we arrived after sunset so we couldn't get the full experience. Both Riomaggiore and Monterosso were a little more built up so we didn't stay in either for too long, but they were still both gorgeous in their own right.We spent anywhere from 15 minutes to over an hour in each city.

Mackenzie with the breathtaking Manarola  in the back!

After finishing the hike, we took a well-earned sleep and got up late to take a 10:30 train to Venice, where we arrived around 4:00 PM.

Venice

What a unique and beautiful city! Mackenzie and I have been to a couple "Venice of the North" cities (Bruges and Stockholm), so it was fun to go to the original! Per usual, we took a pit stop by our Airbnb to drop off our things, then quickly headed onto the island to wander about.

Despite thinking I knew what to expect, I was still shocked when I stepped out into the heart of the island, with no streets in sight and only canals filled with boats. It was so beautiful and so unlike anywhere else in the world. We spent the remaining daylight walking through the tiny pathways and over countless canals, peeping our heads into stores specializing in everything from Carnevale masks to the famous Mureno glass. We made it all the way to the Rialto Bridge and San Marco Square before turning around and heading back to our home for the night.

The historic Rialto Bridge

The next morning it was back to the main island for us (our Airbnb was just off the island but right next to the train station, making it an easy 10-minute journey in). With nicer weather than the overcast prior day, we were able to appreciate Venice fully. Instead of walking through the interior of the island to get to San Marco, this time we followed the Grand Canal around, of course taking time to check out churches along the way and stop at Rialto Bridge again. Once at San Marco, we went in St. Mark's Basilica: a beautiful church whose most prominent feature were the incredible mosaics that lined all the walls, ceilings, and domes. From the basilica, we continued to walk along the outside of the island along the water's edge, taking the time to grab some gelato, to walk through a park, and to even pick up another small painting to add to our growing collection.

The Grand Canal running through the middle of Venice

Before soon, it was time to head back to the train station to grab our 5:30 train to Bergamo, the town where our flight would leave from in two day's time.

Bergamo

By the time we arrived to our final destination on Sunday night we were tired and wanted nothing more than a quiet, relaxed day. We stayed in a very cool Airbnb -- the best of the trip -- with an old, rustic feel to it and two friendly dogs. While we planned to day-trip to the nearby Lake Como the next morning, the weather forecast was bleak, so we made the decision to just spend the day in Bergamo instead. After sleeping in the next morning, we took our time getting ready, indulged in some of the generous host's coffee and breakfast treats, and then headed out to find a printer.

Using a budget airline like Ryanair, while affordable, has some serious drawbacks. One of which is that there is a hefty fee to print your boarding pass at the airport, and you can only print the pass at home 7 days in advance of your flight. Therefore, having a 9-day trip meant we had to find a way to print while on the road. We hoped an Airbnb along the way would have a printer, but this wasn't so, and so we found the nearest internet cafe (I didn't even know these things even existed), and headed out. After much searching, a couple failed internet cafe location (I guess Google Maps isn't infallible after all), we finally found one called "Nigerian Internet Cafe". Quite a name and quite sketchy, but we were able to print out our passes, despite the internet going out while we were there for 10 minutes.

Once we had our passes, we were set for a laid-back day, and took the bus to Città Alta. Bergamo is an old city, and its original foundations were constructed atop a large hill. Nowadays, the city has far overgrown its original hilltop location, but the oldest part of the city remains and is now called Città Alta, or "high city". After arriving, we spent about an hour checking out the views of the expansive city beneath us and wandering around the old town. During this time we walked into the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, which, having done next to no research on the city, flabbergasted us with its beauty. We both agreed that it was the second most beautiful church we've visited (after St. Peter's of course, so it's not really a fair competition). The inside was incredibly ornate, with walls either being clad with beautiful old tapestries, incredible paintings, or simply beautiful golden accents.

Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore's stunning interior

After the church, we decided to take it easy, so we simply found the nearest cafe, grabbed a coffee for me and tea for Mackenzie, and spent a couple hours relaxing, talking about the trip, and discussing our next one (which we leave for in two days -- totally crazy). We then took the bus back down to the Airbnb and relaxed there for a couple more hours before calling it a night. It was a very slow and very relaxed day, and exactly what we needed after the go-go-go of the last week.

We awoke bright and early the next morning (well, not really bright since it was about 3 hours before sunrise) at 4 AM to make our 5 AM train to the airport. It was a little tight, but after rushing through check-in and security, we arrived at our gate with time to spare. At 6:25 we took off, and, as a perfect cap to a trip filled with breathtaking views, flew over the Swiss Alps as the sun rose in the distance. We arrived in Copenhagen less than two hours later -- our trip was over!

A slightly difference angle to check out the Alps



Countless memories were made on this trip, from the indescribable feeling of bungee jumping from that gondola, to hiking through both the snow-capped mountains of the Swiss Alps and the rocky coasts of Cinque Terre 5 days apart, to seeing the best pieces of art mankind has ever produced. It was a trip for the books, and every day over here Mackenzie and I are so grateful for this fantastic adventure that we're on. Our next stop in a fun one: Norway! We head to Bergen on Friday for a few days filled with fjords and, of course, plenty of hiking. Can't wait!

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